{"id":10652,"date":"2023-08-02T20:29:26","date_gmt":"2023-08-02T20:29:26","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.food-blog.co.za\/durban\/?p=10652"},"modified":"2023-08-02T20:29:26","modified_gmt":"2023-08-02T20:29:26","slug":"tasting-menus-vs-a-la-carte-what-do-the-chefs-say-by-s-pellegrino-acqua-panna","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.food-blog.co.za\/durban\/tasting-menus-vs-a-la-carte-what-do-the-chefs-say-by-s-pellegrino-acqua-panna\/","title":{"rendered":"Tasting Menus vs a la Carte? What do the Chefs say? by S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna"},"content":{"rendered":"

Are tasting menus the be-all and end-all of fine dining? Or<\/em> is there a place for\u00a0<\/em>\u00e0<\/em><\/strong> la carte in our high-end restaurants?<\/strong> <\/em><\/p>\n

Diners have more choice than ever before in our South African restaurants, from multi-course, theatrical tasting menus (be it the full food journey or a reduced chef\u2019s menu), to perfectly curated seasonal <\/em>\u00e0<\/em> la carte dining. How do you choose what to opt for as a restaurant enthusiast and foodie, and how does a chef decide on a menu offering for a new restaurant? We put the question to three of South Africa\u2019s best-known chefs to get their take on this topic.<\/em><\/p>\n

In praise of tasting menus<\/strong><\/p>\n

Eat Out\u00a0S.Pellegrino<\/strong><\/em>\u00a0& Acqua Panna<\/strong> Chef of the Year 2019,\u00a0Bertus Basson<\/strong><\/em>, has a food philosophy rooted in traditional South African food culture and an impressive stable of restaurants in Stellenbosch and the Winelands, which range from fine dining establishments to casual eateries.<\/p>\n

\u201cFrom the practical perspective I like tasting menus with a small amount of choice,\u201d Bertus says. His tasting menus at Eike, Chorus, and Clara\u2019s Barn<\/strong> offer a choice of two dishes when it comes to the mains. \u201cIt gives enough scope to choose but it allows us to run the restaurant in a much more focussed way. Instead of putting the energy into choices, we put our energy into finding better produce, and running the restaurant a little bit leaner. It’s also fresher. When the guests come in, they\u2019ll have a wonderful experience.\u201d<\/p>\n

Freshness is key and tasting menus allow you to be in control of that. \u201cIf you travel through the Karoo, which I do a lot because I really like the Karoo,\u201d he says, \u201cand you rock up in a small town and there\u2019s a big menu with 10 starters and 10 main courses, nothing is going to be fresh. If there\u2019s no menu and they say, \u2018You\u2019ll eat what we\u2019re going to feed you\u2019, I\u2019m really happy with that. You eat from the region; you eat what\u2019s fresh.\u201d<\/p>\n

Tasting menus allow you to source more sustainably and can encompass a broader range of ingredients, Bertus says. \u201cFor example, we can\u2019t always buy enough of one species of fresh fish to get through a whole day. So, I might get a bit of Cape salmon or yellowtail and supplement that with fresh hake. I\u2019d serve fresh harder (grey mullet) or mackerel, any time over kingklip, it\u2019s more delicious, more sustainable.\u201d<\/p>\n

And you can include dishes that guests might be hesitant to order on an \u00e0 la carte menu. \u201cWe\u2019ve got to make space for lesser-known ingredients, to challenge the dining public a little bit more and you can do that on a tasting menu. A pork rump is a wonderful cut of lamb kidney. You can\u2019t fill a menu with offal, but you can expose people to a few new things, and South African people are quite adventurous.\u201d<\/p>\n

He feels that there is a place for \u00e0 la carte menus, such as in family restaurants, your local Italian, or a steakhouse, \u201cbut in fine restaurants I think people should learn to trust the chef. It\u2019s all about the experience.\u201d<\/p>\n

Bertus\u2019 conclusion, \u201cThe tasting menu works like a bomb. It makes the industry more sustainable, the team gets to focus on the right places, and the team works fewer hours. It\u2019s a win-win in restaurants like mine.\u201d<\/p>\n

Going above and beyond \u2013 there\u2019s a place for both<\/strong><\/p>\n

Recently returned from the World\u2019s 50 Best awards<\/strong> sponsored by S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna in Valencia, where his Cape Town restaurant FYN<\/strong> was presented with the prestigious Flor de Ca\u00f1a Sustainable Restaurant Award for 2023, Peter Tempelhoff<\/strong> says there\u2019s a place for both \u00e0 la carte and tasting menus in fine dining.<\/p>\n

\u201cTasting menus give you a far easier way to curate an experience for somebody.\u00a0 Here at FYN we want to tell our story through our food. There\u2019s no better way to tell a story than to guide someone through what you want them to experience.\u201d<\/p>\n

Sustainability is also a big factor, \u201cWe know exactly how many guests are dining with us, we know exactly how much of each course we need. It\u2019s far more sustainable to have exactly the food you need for the night, as opposed to over-prepping on stuff. So, it\u2019s a more efficient way of running a business with zero wastage.\u201d<\/p>\n

But it all depends on your dining audience, Peter says. He has taken the \u00e0 la carte route at his Constantia wine farm restaurant, Beyond<\/strong>, at Buitenverwachting. \u201cThere we want families to be able to come without feeling like they must sit through six courses. The style of the restaurant dictates the type of menu you run. I wouldn\u2019t want to take my kids to eat a tasting menu, I don\u2019t want to prescribe to them.\u201d They do however offer a tasting menu format at Beyond for those who prefer this option.<\/p>\n

The team puts just as much attention to detail and seasonality into the \u00e0 la carte menu as they would on a tasting menu. Peter describes a beef dish on the current Beyond winter menu served with four different styles of carrots \u2013 smoked, puree, hasselback, and furikake. \u201cWe really try and focus on an ingredient and make the most of each.\u201d Inevitably there will be over-prepping so that you don\u2019t run out of a dish, but wastage can be minimised with good management. Leftover carrots from one day can go into the stock for the next.<\/p>\n

For him, it\u2019s really down to individual preference. \u201cYou get different diners. Some people prefer not to have a choice, they are there for the experience. They come to FYN and say \u2018Great, tasting menu, go for it. I\u2019m in your hands, I trust you. I\u2019ll eat whatever you put in front of me.\u2019 Whereas the ones who go to Beyond want to choose whatever they feel like that day\u2026 it\u2019s a different mindset. We\u2019re completely diner driven. I have to make sure the people I\u2019m feeding get what they want.\u201d<\/p>\n

His final words, \u201cI like both menu styles, don\u2019t make me choose!\u201d<\/p>\n

\u00c0<\/strong> la carte all the way <\/strong><\/p>\n

A seasoned S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy<\/strong> member, (he was mentor and juror in the 2015 Africa & Middle East regional event, then part of the global jury panel as one of the Seven Sages in the 2016 Grand Finale in Italy), chef and restaurateur David Higgs<\/strong> is a stalwart of the Johannesburg restaurant scene (plus he\u2019s opening matches your mood<\/strong> in Cape Town later this year). He is unequivocally in favour of the \u00e0 la carte approach for his restaurants.<\/p>\n

\u201cIn the Joburg scene, I don\u2019t think people want to be told what to eat or confined or limited. They would rather eat fewer courses of bigger plates than 5-12 courses of smaller plates. A large part of that is perceived value for money. It\u2019s expensive to eat out, money is hard to come by, so you make sure there\u2019s value and people can see the value.\u201d<\/p>\n

And he says Joburg diners are looking for a more informal dining experience, \u201cA tasting menu can become quite laborious. It\u2019s stop-start all the time. The waiter brings a dish. The sommelier comes to talk. And it happens again with each course. It breaks conversation. People aren\u2019t there for a performance; they\u2019ve been confined in the workspace all day and they just want to let loose.\u00a0 There is obviously still a place for tasting menus, but I think there\u2019s a movement away from it, especially in this city.\u201d<\/p>\n

It also has to do with the style and size of the restaurant. He\u2019s usually doing around 300 covers a night at Marble<\/strong> and an intricate multi-course menu at that scale, he says, can be hit and miss. \u201cAs a large format restaurant what we strive for is to perform at the highest level possible. We push the food, the service, everything to the highest level that we can keep consistent.\u201d<\/p>\n

An \u00e0 la carte menu is the best way to achieve that for him, plus it allows the diner experience to be luxurious but less formal. \u201cIt\u2019s fun, it\u2019s about letting your hair down. Marble is really about the fires – when you have a fire people congregate, they walk in, go straight up to the fire and start chatting before they sit down.\u201d It\u2019s become more about the all-round experience now, than just focusing on food and wine, he says. \u201cMusic has become a massive part, the acoustics, the luxury of the bar where you have a drink and relax before going through to your table. Around the world, there\u2019s a movement to more of a vibe, better energy. It\u2019s beautiful dining, massive luxury, but not overly complicated, just really good quality.\u201d<\/p>\n

So having spoken to the chefs, we have three different perspectives and no winner in the tasting menu vs. \u00e0 la carte debate, but many good reasons to continue eating out and to experience a good meal whichever menu matches your mood and suits your dining style.<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Are tasting menus the be-all and end-all of fine dining? Or is there a place for\u00a0\u00e0 la carte in our high-end restaurants? Diners have more choice than ever before in our South African restaurants, from multi-course, theatrical tasting menus (be it the full food journey or a reduced chef\u2019s menu), to perfectly curated seasonal \u00e0…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":10653,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[8],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-10652","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-news"],"yoast_head":"\nTasting Menus vs a la Carte? 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